Adire: The ’90s fabric that’s taking over fashion now

Adire, the vibrant and intricate hand-dyed fabric, has long been a symbol of tradition and heritage. Once a bold fashion statement in the early 1900s, it was later dismissed as a relic of the past, only appreciated when fashioned into traditional attire like iro, buba, and sokoto. But today, Adire has made a triumphant return, transcending cultural boundaries to become a global trend, redefining modern fashion.

From streetwear to high fashion, Adire’s striking patterns now grace face caps, bucket hats, joggers, shirts, cargo pants, and hoodies. Its versatility and bold aesthetic have cemented its place in contemporary style, proving that tradition can seamlessly blend with modernity.

The History of Adire

 

Advertisement

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Quicktrads (@quicktrads)

Adire is a traditional textile art form that originated in southwestern Nigeria, particularly among the Yoruba people. Its roots trace back to the 19th century, when women in cities like Abeokuta and Ibadan perfected the resist-dyeing technique using locally sourced indigo.

The word Adire is from the Yoruba words “adi” (to tie) and “re” (to dye). This technique involves tying, folding, or applying starch paste to sections of fabric before dyeing, creating intricate patterns.

Early Adire fabrics were made on handwoven cotton, with designs crafted using raffia ties or starch resist. The cloth was then dipped in indigo dye, extracted from the Elu plant (Indigofera tinctoria), producing deep blue hues. Over time, artisans refined their methods, introducing stenciling, folding, and hand-painting for more elaborate designs.

By the early 20th century, the arrival of imported European cotton led to innovations like Adire oniko (tied resist) and Adire eleko (starch resist). The demand soared, and by the 1920s and 1930s, Adire became a major trade commodity, with Yoruba women, known as Aláké or Adire merchants, dominating the market.

However, the late 1930s saw a decline in quality due to synthetic dyes, caustic soda, and mass production by less skilled artisans. This led to a drop in demand, and Adire nearly faded into obscurity.

But in the 1990s, a revival began. Nigerian youths and fashion designers embraced Adire, pairing its bold patterns with modern silhouettes. Today, it is a global phenomenon, featured on international runways and worn by celebrities, showcasing the perfect fusion of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary aesthetics.

Materials Needed for Adire Production

1. Fabric

• Cotton, silk, rayon, or any natural fibre fabric – white or light-coloured fabric works best (other colors work fine too).

2. Dyeing Agents

• Fabric Dye – powdered or liquid (e.g. indigo, synthetic dye).
• Hydrosulphide – bleaches fabric to prepare it for dyeing.
• Caustic Soda – helps the dye bond to the fabric and prevents fading.
• Salt or soda ash fixes the dye for long-lasting colour.

3. Tying Materials

• Black rubber tube – creates bold patterns.
• Rubber bands – useful for small, intricate designs.
• Twine – produces fine, delicate patterns.
• Stones, marbles, or buttons are used to form circular designs.

4. Work Tools

• Buckets or bowls – for mixing dye and soaking fabric.
• Wooden stick or spoon – for stirring the dye solution.
•  Gloves – to protect hands from stains and chemicals.
• Scissors – for cutting fabric and tying materials.
• Plastic sheets or newspapers – to protect the workspace.
• Apron or old clothes – to prevent staining.

Dyeing Method 

Two main methods can be used during the dyeing process. These include:

1. Submersion Method: This process involves the fabric being fully dipped into a dye solution. It allows for deep, even color absorption while preserving undyed areas to form intricate designs.

This method is commonly used in traditional Adire oniko (tied resist) and Adire alabere (stitched resist) techniques, producing unique and artistic textile designs.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by MADE IN AFRICA | FASHION BRAND & GARMENT MANUFACTURER (@thatpurpledotcouture)

2. Sprinkle Method: Dye is sprinkled or poured onto sections of the fabric, creating a speckled or marbled effect. Unlike traditional submersion dyeing, this method results in abstract, organic patterns with a vibrant, textured appearance.

This method is commonly used in modern tie-dye fashion and contemporary Adire variations, offering a free-flowing, artistic look

Tie and Dye Process 

Step 1: Preparing the Fabric

• Wash the fabric to remove dirt, starch, or factory chemicals.
• Dry and iron if needed for an even dyeing process.

Step 2: Tying the Fabric

• Select a design and fold, twist, or pleat the fabric.
• Secure with black rubber tubes, rubber bands, twine, or stones.

Step 3: Preparing the Dye Solution

For powdered dye:

• Mix all dry ingredients (dye, hydrosulphide, and caustic soda) in a bowl in the correct proportions.
• Dissolve in warm water and stir thoroughly.

For liquid dye:

• Dissolve hydrosulphide and caustic soda in warm water.
• Add liquid dye and stir until fully mixed.

Step 4: Dyeing

For the submersion method

• Submerge the tied fabric fully into the dye bath.
• Stir occasionally to ensure even colouring.
• Let it soak for 15–30 minutes (longer for deeper shades).

For the sprinkle method

• Place the tied fabric on a flat surface covered with plastic sheets.
• Use a spoon or brush to sprinkle the dye solution over different sections of the fabric.
• Let the dye absorb for 15–30 minutes before rinsing.

Step 5: Rinsing and drying

• Remove the fabric and squeeze out excess dye.
• Rinse in clean water until the water runs clear.
• Carefully untie the fabric to reveal the pattern.
• Hang in the shade to dry to prevent fading.

Step 6: Colour fixing

• Soak in saltwater or vinegar solution for 10–15 minutes to set the colour.
• Rinse, dry, and iron before use.

The sixth step is not considered compulsory. One can decide to end their process at the fifth step.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by ANKARABAE by Presh Talker (@ankarabae_bypreshtalker)

Types of Adire Designs 

1. Jacquard – woven-like patterns.
2. Salad – random, scattered patterns.
3. Marble – stone-like effect.
4. Hand cracking – textured, broken-line design.
5. W – resembles the letter ‘W’.
6. Double V – two overlapping ‘V’ shapes.
7. Pleating – fabric is folded into pleats before dyeing.
8. Range drop  – a dripping, layered effect.

Adire has indeed carved its own identity in the fashion world and has continued to thrive for decades. Be it cultural representation or artistic expression, it remains a vibrant symbol of creativity and African heritage, bridging the past and the present.